Today I want to explore Marylebone. This is a neighborhood that borders Regents Park, where I take my classes. When I stopped in London for 3 days in 2005, I wandered through Marylebone and thought it charming and gorgeous. But back then I was sick with bronchitis, and I don’t remember much except for general impressions. So today is my chance to visit Marylebone.
Sherlock Holmes Museum
The Baker Street Tube station is where I alight for my classes, and just across the street from one of its doors is the Sherlock Holmes museum. It’s located at the actual address of 221 Baker Street. It was built in 1817, and according to Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s stories, Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson lived there from 1881-1904. The city was able to purchase the building in 1936 I think, and it’s been recreated to look a typical Victorian residence, with details from the stories helping with the furnishings.
Unfortunately, between the poor lighting and the jostling of tourists, my photos didn’t come out very well.
Sherlock’s Bedroom with Portraits of Famous Criminals
Dr. Watson’s Room
Salon Where They Received Clients
Table Set by Mrs. Watson
It doesn’t show in the photos, but these rooms are extremely small. The salon doesn’t look as if there’s really room for both Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson to be in together comfortably, much less to receive a restless, upset client.
The bathroom is up in the attic, which I thought interesting.
Bathroom in the Attic
There are mannequin replicas of characters from the stories. See if you can guess their names, or the stories from whence they came:
(Hint: That’s a snake wrapped around the head of the man next to the bell pull.)
Who is the Blindfolded Man and his Lovely Companion?
In addition to the mannequins, there are recreations of other things from the stories. One is of a story itself, supposedly in Dr. Watson’s hand.
Book with Handwritten Notes by Dr. Watson
There is also an entry from Who’s Who, giving information about Sherlock Holmes, including his parentage, interest in beekeeping, and the club to which he belongs.
Sherlock Holmes Entry in the Victorian Who’s Who
Finally, there is a bust of the great detective.
Sherlock Holmes Bust
All in all, this is a fun museum. The Sherlock Holmes Society has done a marvelous job of recreating the settings in the stories. The little details in the flat, such as newspapers dated 1889, printed advertisements from the police asking for information on a crime in the neighborhood, etc, are all well-researched and interesting. I love the Sherlock Holmes stories (he was an early hero of my life), but I am nowhere near the level of expertise as the folks who’ve put together this museum, or some of the people who were visiting at the same time as I. The conversations I heard, with incredibly geeky bits of trivia, were great fun.
Marylebone Neighborhood
I head up to the Marylebone High Street, with its gorgeous buildings, chic boutiques, and tons of restaurants, cafés, and bakeries.
Marylebone High Street Buildings
Red Brick Buildings on Marylebone High Street
View Down the Marylebone High Street
This neighborhood has its own baby elephant statue, so here’s another one for my safari collection.
Marylebone Baby Elephant Statue (1170)
Walking down a side street I pass a huge, old, and stunningly beautiful church. It’s just one of the buildings in the neighborhood, people pass by it without a second glance. But to me it’s quite a sight, and the workmanship that brought it into being warrant a photo, even if it labels me a gawking tourist.
Church in Marylebone
Wallace Collection
There’s a private collection museum in Marylebone called the Wallace Collection. The building alone, which used to be a single-family house, is immense. There are three generations’ worth of collector’s items, with everything from statues, furniture, statuary, and jewelry. I can’t show them all to you, but here are some of my favorites.
Gorgeous Wood Table (Maybe French Design?)
Closeup of the Wood Table
Statue of the Abduction of Prosperina
Downstairs there are rooms full of suits of armor, shields and swords. I sit for a few minutes and listen to a lecture about armor. I learn that chain mail that is riveted together is stronger and more long lasting than that which is just pressed together, and that zinc coating is even stronger still. This is all happening in a family mansion that is filled with treasures of all kinds.
Even the columns of the building are ornate and gorgeous.
Detail of Wallace Collection Building Column
There are huge paintings in the collection, some of which have the largest and most intense frames I’ve ever seen. Here are a couple of photos from one of them. I could only capture a small bit of it.
Corner of an Immense Picture Frame
Decoration in the Middle of the Picture Frame’s Bottom
Each room has a different style, including the wallpaper and chandeliers. This is one of my favorites, with silk wallpaper and Marie Antoinette style.
Pale Blue Silk Wallpaper
Finally, here’s a photo of a green room with beautiful chairs.
Green Chair to Match the Room
This house, this estate, and all of the marvels within, are astonishing. I’m amazed that a single family could collect such an enormity of beauty. More amazing still, it’s free to enter and enjoy. People come by on their lunch hour, sit in the garden, go in to see a room or two, and come away with their souls enlivened from the beauty. As do I.
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