Originally, Tuesday was going to be my first day to sleep late ("have a lie-in" as the Brits would say), and really feel like I'm on vacation. Up until today, it's been months of organizing and arranging, and even after getting here there was all that running around to get food and internet and transit cards, etc. But I had to get up early as the gas repair person was due anytime between 8:00am and 1:00pm. Well, if getting up early would result in me having heat and hot water, I was willing.
Michael from British Gas showed up around 9:30. He was very knowledgeable, if a bit pedantic, and explained to me what he thought was happening. Which was exactly what I'd thought--the internal safety thermostat of the boiler was broken, and it kept shutting itself off. There were two possible causes: sensors or the gas valve. Sensors would be no problem; Michael could get those parts. But nobody makes gas valves as old as this boiler, so if that was the problem, both Ken and I would be in trouble, as a whole new boiler would have to be purchased and installed. No way of knowing until the sensors were replaced, which would have to be done in another appointment. Disappointing news for me, as I was hoping to be able to bathe normally and not freeze for another night.
Sightseeing at Last
Michael left around 10:30, so I took off to go see St. James Park. Just outside the Westminster Tube station is the clock tower holding Big Ben, the famous bell. All the shots I took of it from that side showed the deep gray clouds, but there was one small break in the storminess when I got to the other side of the tower, so I quick got this small shot.
Big Ben Clock Tower
Down the road from Big Ben is St. Stephen's Church, an enormous Gothic structure. These buildings are hundreds, if not more than a thousand years old, and I was struck with the thought that there were no motorized engines then, to lift the heavy stones that high, or swinging cranes to lift the huge, fragile, and presumably heavy stained glass into their window frames. The engineering necessary to build such elaborate and intense buildings, edifices that have withstood weather and wars, blows my mind.
St. Stephen's Gothic Church
Not only that, the detailing on these buildings is so intricate and so fine, and it's all done in stone and metal that to this day tower over mere mortal humans as a symbol of that which lives on forever.
Ornate Stone and Metal Detail on St. Stephen's Church
Just down the road from there is St. Margaret's Church, part of Westminster Abbey. Henry VIII had a lovely stained glass window made for Anne Bolyen, before he decided to break with the Catholic Church.
Anne Bolyen's Window in St. Margaret's Church
Giant Pipes from the Organ at St. Margaret's Church
Ornate Altar in St. Margaret's Church at Westminster Abbey
Main Building at Westminster Abbey
If I remember right, Westminster Abbey was originally founded in 1042 and was added onto for centuries. I didn't go inside as I wanted to get over to St. James Park before the afternoon rains came. But even just seeing it from the outside was stunning.Westminster Abbey
Detail on One Building of Westminster Abbey
After a few wrong turns and missing small streets that come in diagonally to the main thoroughfares, I managed to wend my way over to St. James Park. It's a lovely park, known for its Spring flower gardens and bird lake. Since it's been so cold and rainy, the tulips were almost all gone and many of the other flowers were confused as well, but there were still lots of lovely blossoms to see.
Tulips in St. James Park
Bird Lake in St. James Park
Here's a shot that a very nice woman took of me, just so there'd be at least one photo that had me in it. I'm standing next to a very large Scotch Broom bush that looked a lot like Laurie Anderson's old hair style.
Me in St. James Park
As you can see by my clothing, the weather is quite chilly, and there's always the threat of rain any minute. The light is absolutely awful for photography, too--a gray-white glare all day long--but I just do what I can. The flowers are actually lovely, even if they don't show well in the pix.
Storks in St. James Park
I actually saw some huge storks, the baby-carrying kind, preening by the lake. Most of the birds are in their breeding plumage, so whenever I caught sight of them, it was gratifying. The other day I saw baby coots in Regents Park. We have tons of coots at home, but I've never seen the little guys before. Here in St. James Park I saw black & white striped ducks and lovely white geese that are different than the water fowl we share our neighborhoods with.
Now you have to remember that London is one of the largest and busiest cities on the planet when you see this next photo. St. James Park is not so big that one can escape the sounds of traffic, but just for a moment, one can concentrate on the waterfall and blank out all the rest of the energy of the city. It's a lovely place to go to be in quiet green and see a bit of wildlife.
Tranquil Waterfall in St. James Park
Huge Chestnut Tree in St. James Park
You know me, Earth sign and all, I love trees. This one, which I think is a chestnut of some kind, is enormous. The little poles you see in back of it are fence posts that are about 3 1/2 feet high, so that will give you some sense of scale. The blossoms didn't have any fragrance in the chill air, but they were absolutely gorgeous.
Chestnut Blossom Close-up
At one side of the park are the backs of the Houses of Parliament and the War Office buildings.
House of Parliament and War Office Buildings
I just happened to pass the area where the Horse Guard comes out to do their morning riding ritual just as they entered the arena. It made me realize what masters of ritual the British people are. They do so love their marching men in uniforms, their Queen, their horses, bands and choirs. I believe ritual to be a very healthy and sacred thing, whatever form you might give it. The UK is an entire nation devoted to its rituals, just as Bali is. I'd never thought of that before, but watching the Horse Guard start their maneuvers, and watching the crowds of people drawn to witness it, gave me that insight.
Horse Guard on Maneuvers
Oh, that's the famous London Eye ferris wheel on the right. I guess I'll try to make time to get up in that. Maybe at night...
Continuing on around the lake, there are more beautiful gardens, with wallflowers and pansies, etc.
Orange Wallflowers
Tri-color Garden
Buckingham Palace
At one end of the park is the way to Buckingham Palace. Again, my timing was unconsciously perfect, as I arrived just in time to see the Changing of the Guard ritual. There were so-o many tourists I couldn't get anywhere near the soldiers, but I could hear the band playing the march and see the red jackets trooping along in formation.
Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace
Buckingham Palace
Monument to Queen Victoria at Buckingham Palace
About halfway between the entrance to St. James Park and Buckingham Palace, I twisted my ankle on an uneven bit of path. It wasn't too bad, but by the time I made it to the palace, I felt like I should probably head back home. The sky was lowering with a deep, dark gray, and I was also getting hungry. So I made my way past the palace to an enormous intersection of curving and diagonal streets, following signs toward the Underground. I had to pass by the Duke of Wellington Archway, which is classical and lovely.
Duke of Wellington Archway
Just there at the monument is a large circular area with memorials to soldiers in various wars. Underneath is a passageway across the terrifying intersection into the Underground. I followed the signs to the line I needed (Victoria, headed to Green Park and Victoria stations) but the passageways kept ending in either a dead end, or back up on the surface at the circular memorial. I went 'round and 'round, and simply couldn't figure out how to get to my stations. So fine, I went to one that was one station East of mine, and changed trains. I'd still like to know just how to navigate that particular set of passageways.
By the time I arrived home, my poor feet ached, and my twisted ankle was complaining very loudly. I made myself a good dinner and then sat with my feet up all night, hoping to alleviate the swelling. It was still cold, and there was still no hot water, but the repair man is due tomorrow. Maybe his installation of the sensors will fix the problem. Hope springs eternal, even if the hot water doesn't.
Glad to see that the timing of your first tourist day was so spot on.
ReplyDeleteIm sorry but I need to ask, who is Laurie Anderson
ReplyDeleteLaurie Anderson is a musician who sported randomly moussed up hair way before anyone else did, back in the early 80s. I once heard her tell a story where, some few years after she started wearing her hair that way and it had become quite popular, she was walking down the street in NYC and some woman passed her and said snidely "Oh great. Another Laurie Anderson clone." The Scotch Broom bush reminded me of that.
ReplyDelete